How do Alexander Mcqueen, John Galliano and Marc Jacobs respond to the Recession?

The Collection: Rad

At the opposite end of the spectrum was Alexander McQueen. His response to the economic scrap heap we've found ourselves in was to construct a literal scrap heap in the center of his runway, and to parade his models out with trash bag hats and sex doll lips, each outfit more theatrical and high drama than the last. Despite McQueen's apocalyptic mood, the houndstooth pieces probably have legs off the catwalk.





The Makeup: Rad

Recession, what recession? John Galliano was in full-blown storytelling mode at Christian Dior, where he created a Paul Poiret-inspired Orientalist fantasy with the help of Pat McGrath and Julien d'Ys that involved rainbow-hued makeup (violet eyebrows! orange cheekbones!) and hundreds of bobby pins used to fasten marcel waves tight to models' heads. Yes, in a downturn, using hundreds of pins counts as lavish.





The Guest List: Trad

The seating at Marc Jacobs was democratic: Everybody sat front-row. And by everybody we mean the hard-working fashion corps. Editors, stylists, and buyers were in. Celebs were out, and with them the attendant pap frenzy, which meant the show didn't just start on time—it started early. Even Suzy Menkes had to approve.

Little Self Reflection

After the analysis on Marc Jacobs's collection over a decade, I've found Jacobs's favourite colors and color scheme used. However, it is a bit narrow to find out the above only. In my opinion, the reason why Marc Jacobs likes to use those color is important, and the impact affecting him is also important.

In order to know the reason and impact of why Marc Jacobs likes to use those color, I going to analyse other designers who are graduated from Saint Martin School of Arts and around the same year of graduation with Marc Jacobs. And, they are Alexander Mcqueen and John Galliano. I believe Marc Jacobs, Alexander Mcqueen and John Galliano are inter-affecting towards each other, and the answer of my questions should be acheived.

On the other hand, I will also state some collection of Comme des Garcons to show why Marc Jacobs has been influenced.

V.M. in Marc Jacobs shop

This is the shop located in Cleveland Street.

In this shop, the main color used is white, which give a feeling of spacious.

Since Jacobs always use Achromatic color scheme in his collection, there is no surprise that the outer wall written "MARC BY MARC JACOBS" is black, and the inner wall is white, which is also Achromatic color scheme.

Moreover, the items are allocated by the color schemes that Jacobs always used in his collection. In the above picture, red in different values are put together, which is Monchromatic color scheme, and there are some bluish green items put besides, which is complimentary to the red color.

All in all, Marc Jacobs not only use achromatic color scheme, monochromatic color scheme and complimentary color scheme in his collections, but also in his shops which can tells that he really likes to use these color schemes.

Gorgeous Advertisement

Here are some advertisements found on trams, the wall of building, magazine and on web.

Usually, the background of the ad is white, which is same as the V.M. of its own store.

Coincidentally, the color families used in Marc Jacobs' ad are those Jacobs always used in his collection. And of course, he always uses color as same as playing magic.

The above color used are the most impressed me, as when I first glance at this ad, one thing in my mind is that, "It's so feminine", "It expresses the gentle moment of female" and " It's the prettiest moment". The colors give me these feeling are in the above color family, such as pink, kahki, brown etc..

The first impression the above ad gives me is bloody, the man act like eating human meat!! Actually, it's right, it's meat, but not human, is the beef in a burger. That's mean, red, orange, yellow and brown together gives a feeling of bloody.

Oh!! here contains the color scheme Jacobs likes to use quite often!!

It's Complimentary Color Scheme and Analogous Color Scheme!!

Do you still remember one of the outfits in Jacobs' 2000 S/S???

The theme of that year is the California Summer Girl. Let's see the outfit!!

The colors used are quite similar, except the use of sky blue. But this outfit also project the same feeling as the ad above.

And, countryside, autumn, will use the similar colors.

Red, Yellow and Blue. Triad is used. The feeling is hard to describe, but it represents Marc Jacobs!

It is deemed that Marc Jacobs is an ironic, erotic designer.

Some of the ad are quite erotic either. See the above!!

Even, some cutie ad will have little nude female.



Not only the brand Marc Jacobs, but also Louis Vuitton's ad.

A LITTLE CONCLUSION ON 10 YEARS

After analyzing 10-years collections of Marc Jacobs, the following conclusion is drawn. Firstly, I’m going to talk about what colors Marc Jacobs used under different circumstances. Secondly, I’ll highlight the special style of Marc Jacobs in applying colors. Then, I’ll move on to the color scheme that he always used, and the reason behind. Finally, I will stressed the colors that Marc Jacob loves to used, and the reason behind.

1) Colors used under different circumstances
Red+Orange+Yellow+Brown: Summer, Beach.
Different hues of Red: a feeling of sweet and cutie girls.
Black+White+Grey: a feeling of elegance
Purple+Orange+Yellow+Green+Blue: nation feeling
Pastels Colors: feminine, gentle
Red+Purple+ Green: STRONG feeling

2) The special style of Marc Jacobs in applying colors
In 2002 collection, Jacobs wants to project the feeling of a sunny Sunday morning after a long Saturday night. However, I expect the color used should be holiday mood, which are some sunshine colors, RED, ORANGE, BLUE...but Jacobs is the opposite, color used are BLACK, WHITE, GREY, KHAKI. Jacobs is always play with the opposite.

In 2003 collection, I discover one thing is that, Jacobs has all the literal references to past fashions verged on re-creation, rather than the renewal for which Jacobs is justly famous.

Moreover, I also found that Jacobs will still reference to his past collection in Perry Ellis and he also express different feelings by applying the same color scheme and nearing colors.

3) The color scheme that Jacobs always used
Achromatic Color Scheme, Analogous Color Scheme, and Monochromatic Color Scheme.

4) The colors that Marc Jacob loves to used

Black,White,Grey:
These three colors always appears in Jacobs's collections.

Not only had Jacobs been late even to the point of unfashionable, but his show was derivative, relying rather too heavily on the archive of Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons and, even more so, Martin Margiela.Never one to let things lie, Jacobs responded immediately, and in suitably high-profile style, by telling the industry bible Women's Wear Daily: "I've never denied how influenced I am by Margiela or by Rei Kawakubo, those are people that inspire my work. I don't hide that... Everyone is influenced by Comme des Garçons and by Martin Margiela. Anybody who's aware of what life is in a contemporary world is influenced by those designers."

BUT WHY White, Black and Grey???
On one hand, Japanese culture in colors are the third color as their preference. Since they don't want to be standed out. Therefore, black, white and grey colour are their favourite colors.

On the other hand, Rei Kawakubo's baby boomer is after WWⅡ. At that period, Japan was full of darkness, with purging the war criminals, rape, civilian casualties, comfort woman, starvation etc. Post-war Japan was chaotic. By the influence of the baby boomer, in the earily period of Comme des Garcons the designer likes to use black, white, grey colors which refers to died, sadness.

Marc Jacobs 2000

Spring 2000





















Click the above picture the view it clearly=]


Marc Jacobs' Spring 2000 line is sure to become one of the most important collections of the season. The mood of the clothes was evocative of a California surfer girl on holiday in a Parisian discotheque circa 1979: canvas trousers with green and red piping were paired with poor boy cashmere T-shirts; Nimes denim pants, sundresses, and skirtsuits looked crisp and fresh with striped gauze tops. The clean and simple lines were thrown occasional accents—like paillette trimming on green cotton satin pea jackets, spotted dresses, and striped trousers. The overall feeling: effortless, understated chic.




The above picture shows how is in a Parisian discotheque, and Marc Jacobs' collection is inspired by the wearing inside the discotheque. However, you can compare the atmosphere in the above picture and the below. Although Jacobs's outfits can express the mood, the decoration or design of the runway cannot let others feel the mood well.



Analogous Color Scheme is used, both the red and bluish purple is the colors that Jacobs always used.




Monochromatic Color Scheme is used, giving a feeling of sophisticated.




I love these two outfits the most among the collection. I would say, they must be the apply of your eye if you were in the discotheque! These two outfits fully expressed California surfer girl on holiday, which I can feel Sun shine from them! But how could Marc Jacobs do that? It is not because of the skin color of the model, is the main color Jacobs used is Orange, Red and Green. But it is not enough to bring the mood, I think Marc Jacobs is just like playing magic when he apply colors. The above, Principle of Order is used, you can find that (the left photo), Jacobs firstly used the Achromatic black contrasting with a red line, then will be the monochromatic color scheme of red, followed by the complimentary color scheme. It is really amazing!

Color Family:

FALL 2000

























Click the above picture the view it clearly=]


Marc Jacobs continued doing what he does best: reinterpreting classic favorites with a refined, self-effacing skill. This time around, '70s wardrobe favorites—head-to-toe looks that call to mind a sophisticated feminist art dealer with a penchant for the organic—underwent his skillful surgical treatment.





Again, this is the colors, and color scheme he usually used, analogous color scheme. This would give me a feeling of office girl in 70's.




I love the plastic jacket, the pattern fully expressed " I am designed by Marc Jacobs". Actually, in the pattern, split complimentary color scheme is used which RED, YELLOW and GREEN are used. I would say this give me a feeling of modern but not 70's, it would still be fashionable if you wearing this to your office.


SUMMARY
In 2000, the color schemes that Jacobs always use are Achromatic Color Scheme, Analogous Color Scheme and Monchromatic Color Scheme. But he used Split Complimentary Color Scheme and Principle of Order to project some special feeling. For example, Red, Orange, Yellow and Brown can give us feeling of Summer, Beach.

Marc Jacobs 2001

SPRING 2001


Click the above picture the view it clearly=]



To a blaring soundtrack, '80s-inspired homecoming queens strutted their stuff: ruched jersey drawstring tops with punky poplin skirts, wide belts with studs and pastel appliqués, twill baggy shorts, and mile-high mesh stilettos. Then again, if you already lived firsthand through the stylistic excesses of the early to mid-'80s, you may not be ready for a full-blown Fiorucci revival. Relax, you need not hunt for your collection of neon bows and gummy bracelets. Look past the Valley Girl styling and you'll discover plenty of wearable, grown-up pieces in Jacobs' collection, like sharply cut cotton trousers, double-layered skirts and a beautiful canary-yellow silk paper taffeta dress.







Valley Girl Styling contains poplin skirts, wide belts with studs and pastel appliqués, twill baggy shorts. The colors used are pastel candy color, giving a sense of sweet.




The above picture, Analogous Color Scheme is used, although the color is not pink which is a cutie color, by applying Analogous Color Scheme and the values of the hues are quite low which give a pastel color. The overall outfit is still very soft and gentle.




Monochromatic Color Scheme is used, you would also see wide belts with studs in white is added. Which means, Jacobs fulfilled the theme his want to express.


Complmentary Color Scheme, again, it's red and green, which give us a feeling of fresh, teenage.


The show cannot end if there is no Achromatic Color Scheme, Jacobs is so clever that, he wants to bring out the image "Valley Girl" but he must have Achromatic Color, and so he used a plastic fabric to make the above coat. And this, surely can express the image "Valley Girl".

Color Family:









FALL 2001

Click the above picture the view it clearly=]


Jacobs gave a lively twist to his boiled-twill suits, silk jackets, and cashmere coats using oversized, childlike buttons. The effect was that of a young girl trying on her older sister's clothes, yet somehow making them all her own. Colorful trompe l'oeil lapels, ribbons, collars, and trims on simple georgette tops and dresses all added to the general feeling of naive elegance.




Actually, up to 60% of the collection used Achromatic Color Scheme to project the young girl trying on her older sister's clothes and the feeling of elegance. And the above picture, used complimentary color scheme, which add a little naive and elegance to the whole feeling.





SUMMARY
In 2001, the color schemes that Jacobs always use are Achromatic Color Scheme, Analogous Color Scheme and Monchromatic Color Scheme. Different hues of red are used when Jacobs wants to project a feeling of sweet and cutie girls. Also, Jacobs uses schromatic color scheme to project the feeling of elegance.