My first sight at PECLERS

TODAY, I gain a million dollars!!!

Conclusion on comparison

By looking at few years collection of Jacobs, Mcqueen and Galliano, we can find that, three of them are influenced by each other, there are a few points I would like to draw to conclude.

1) Both Jacobs and Mcqueen like to use achromatic color scheme in their every collection.
2) Both Jacobs and Mcqueen may be influenced by Rei Kamakubo or Martin Margiela.
3) Both Jacobs and Galliano like to use bright and sharp color in collections.
4) Jacobs applied color scheme better than that of Galliano and Mcqueen.

Mean Girls Smack Down! Marc Jacobs Vs. John Galliano

NY Times fashion guru Eric Wilson overheard a conversation between fashion rivals Marc Jacobs and John Galliano last week while lunching at the Mercer Hotel that was more like a page from the Mean Girls script than idle chit chat!

Isn't there some unspoken gay rule that you're not supposed to have more than one diva in a room at the same time? It's like having your Madonna and Cher dolls over for a slumber party at Barbie's Dream House. You just don't do it!

Here's what they boys said and what they really meant (sort of) while speaking in gay playground code...

“Hi, John!” Mr. Jacobs exclaimed. “How are you doing?"(IN OTHER WORDS: Oh, it's you.)

“Good, nice to see you,” Mr. Galliano said. “Oh, you’ve gone a little darker, I see.”(IN OTHER WORDS: Still letting your midlife crisis get the best of you, I see. You look like shit.)

“Navy!” Mr. Jacobs said. “Na-vy.” (In my wildest fantasy, MJ punctuated each syllable with a snap!)(IN OTHER WORDS Girl, you look like a cracked-out John Waters with that silly pencil-thin mustache above your lip! When was the last time you looked int he mirror?)

“Oh, that would be a little chicer,” Mr. Galliano said. “Indigo!"(IN OTHER WORDS: Miss Thang, you are so trashy! You couldn't look chic if you tried!)

“Well, if you ever feel like having tea or coffee, I’m sort of bedridden for a few days, so I can’t move far,” Mr. Jacobs said. “I had an operation.”(IN OTHER WORDS: I've got a whole team of plastic surgeons, nutritionists and personal trainers working on making this look hot! You're just jealous that all the fashion magazines actually want to photograph me in the birthday suit that God designed!)

“Oh really?"(IN OTHER WORDS: Oh Really?)

“Sex change."(IN OTHER WORDS: Girl, at least I don't look like a messy daytime drag queen on a hot day! Toodles!)

Marc Jacobs jealous of John Galliano?

Frillr is reporting that super tan Marc Jacobs is jealous of costume king, John Galliano, reportedly trash-mouthing his rival during workouts at the David Barton Gym on West 23rd Street.

According to a Page Six spy, the American designer “Marc and his trainer always talk very loudly - it’s annoying. All he does is complain about Galliano - even after [Galliano's best friend and right-hand man] Stephen Robinson died in April. It was disgusting. He’s so jealous of John.”

What's to be jealous about? They're both creative directors at iconic French fashion houses, they both design ready-to-wear collections under their own brand and both one of them designs Haute Couture.









IS THIS RUMOURS??

Marc Jacobs and Lorenzo Martone is engaged!!!

手揽两大品牌的设计师马克·雅可布 (Marc Jacobs) 和从事广告工作的巴西籍男友Lorenzo Martone 终于订婚了！想来报友们从去年以来就听到过N次他们要结婚的消息了吧，不过他们俩这次是实实在在的订婚了！！

CATWALKS (REI KAWAKUBO, MARTIN MARGIELA)

REI KAWAKUBO

Tokyo-born Rei Kawakubo is the inspiration behind the internationally recognized Comme des Garçons fashion name. Characterized by white and minimalist interiors, the company's retail outlets were designed by Kawakubo and Japanese architect Takao Kawasaki. Kawakubo's clothing has often been seen to embody notions of anti-fashion, often asymmetrical in appearance, using folds and pleats, exposed stitching, together with the incorporation of ‘found’ materials and the use of contrasting textures and fabrics. Rei Kawakubo's work is both paradox and ideological imperative. Minimal, monochromatic, and modernist. Kawakubo's themes combine the essence of Japanese traditional work-end streetwear, its simplicity of style, fabric, and color, with an admiration for modern architecture, especially the purism of Le Corbusier and Tadao Ando. The tradition of the kimono, with its architectural silhouette off the body and its many-layered complexity of body wrappings, combines with a graphic approach that is flat and abstract.

MARTIN MARGIELA


Martin Margiela is a powerful talent in avant-garde fashion. Formerly an assistant to Jean-Paul Gaultier, the Belgian-born Margiela showed his first collection in 1989 and immediately achieved cult status. He was heralded as fashion's latest bad boy genius and the most notorious exponent of la mode destroy. He dislikes the term "destroy fashion" and has insisted he does not regard it as destructive when he slashes old clothes. On the contrary, he told Elle in April 1991 that it is his way of "bringing them back to life in a different form."

Elements that interaffecting

Apart from colors, there are still something that Mcqueen, Jacobs and Galliano inter-influencing. More examples are as follows:




2009 Marc Jacobs (L)
2009 Christian Dior (R)

Both of Jacobs and Galliano projected a see-through style which adds a little erotics feeling. The main element they really look the same is that, they are both striped see-through and showing underwear of the model. So, I think Jacobs and Galliano must be inter-affecting.


2009 Marc Jacobs (L)
2005 Alexander Mcqueen (R)


Can you find anything special among these two pictures? Mcqueen applied this checks pattern in his collection in 2005, and this year Spring Summer collection of Jacobs also applied checks which is very similar. Besides, Jacobs not only appplied checks with red color, but also achromatic color scheme.


2009 Alexander Mcqueen (L)
2004 Christian Dior (R)

The first reaction I saw Mcqueen's collection this year is that...DIOR 2004 COUTURE!!! I could hardly forget what Galliano has did in that year, it's really gorgeous and amazing!! Can you see both of their hat? They are almost the same!! Who can bet that three of them are not inter-affecting??

CATWALKS (JACOBS, MCQUEEN, GALLIANO)

By comparing the catwalk shows by Jacobs, Mcqueen and Galliano, I believe I could found out the relationship between them.

2005 Fall Winter Alexander Mcqueen



2005 Fall Winter Marc Jacobs

Both Mcqueen and Jacobs uses sharp, and colorful colors in this collection. I don't think it is a conicidence, as Jacobs often use dull and dark color in his Fall Winter collection. Although they may discuss the color used in this collection, one thing that I would say, there is no one comparable as Jacobs when applying color scheme. As you can see that, Mcqueen would only use one hue, or monochromatic color scheme in his outfit. But Jacobs compliementary color scheme, achromatic color scheme, apart from using monochromatic color scheme alone.

2009 Spring Summer Alexander Mcqueen



2009 Spring Summer Christian Dior




2009 Spring Summer Marc Jacobs





In this collection, three of them also applied bright colors. Mcqueen applied his symmetric pattern and more color schemes are applied. You would find that the silouette used by Mcqueen is quite similar to that of Jacobs. And same as Jacobs, achromatic color scheme must be applied in his every collections. Actually, Galliano also applied bright and sharp colors in this collection. However, he again used monochromatic color scheme only, which is less comparable to Jacobs.


2009 Fall Winter Alexander Mcqueen




2009 Fall Winter Christian Dior





2009 Fall Winter Marc Jacobs





As Jacobs has said before, everyone in Fashion industry is affected by Martin Margiela. Martin Margiela is a person who likes to use BLACK, WHITE and GREY in his collection, and not only Jacobs do influenced by Martin Margiela, but also Mcqueen, in almost every collections of Mcqueen you would find that there are thousands of Achromatic color scheme, which is the same as Jacobs. Achromatic color scheme is appearing a must in Jacobs' collections.

When it comes to 2009 Fall Winter, which is a year suffering from recession, Jacobs and Galliano used many electric colors to against the economic downturn. Again, Galliano is not as well as Jacobs when applying color scheme, he used monochromatic color scheme only. But Jacobs used Complimentary color scheme and Analogous Color Scheme apart from Monochromatic Color Scheme.

It seems that Mcqueen is not following their tracks?? NO!! Mcqueen used RED color to against the recession. If the prediction that JACOBS and MCQUEEN are not only influenced by Martin Margiela, but also Rei Kawakubo. Mcqueen followed the tracks, as Japanese will also use red color apart from achromatic color.

How do Alexander Mcqueen, John Galliano and Marc Jacobs respond to the Recession?

The Collection: Rad

At the opposite end of the spectrum was Alexander McQueen. His response to the economic scrap heap we've found ourselves in was to construct a literal scrap heap in the center of his runway, and to parade his models out with trash bag hats and sex doll lips, each outfit more theatrical and high drama than the last. Despite McQueen's apocalyptic mood, the houndstooth pieces probably have legs off the catwalk.





The Makeup: Rad

Recession, what recession? John Galliano was in full-blown storytelling mode at Christian Dior, where he created a Paul Poiret-inspired Orientalist fantasy with the help of Pat McGrath and Julien d'Ys that involved rainbow-hued makeup (violet eyebrows! orange cheekbones!) and hundreds of bobby pins used to fasten marcel waves tight to models' heads. Yes, in a downturn, using hundreds of pins counts as lavish.





The Guest List: Trad

The seating at Marc Jacobs was democratic: Everybody sat front-row. And by everybody we mean the hard-working fashion corps. Editors, stylists, and buyers were in. Celebs were out, and with them the attendant pap frenzy, which meant the show didn't just start on time—it started early. Even Suzy Menkes had to approve.

Little Self Reflection

After the analysis on Marc Jacobs's collection over a decade, I've found Jacobs's favourite colors and color scheme used. However, it is a bit narrow to find out the above only. In my opinion, the reason why Marc Jacobs likes to use those color is important, and the impact affecting him is also important.

In order to know the reason and impact of why Marc Jacobs likes to use those color, I going to analyse other designers who are graduated from Saint Martin School of Arts and around the same year of graduation with Marc Jacobs. And, they are Alexander Mcqueen and John Galliano. I believe Marc Jacobs, Alexander Mcqueen and John Galliano are inter-affecting towards each other, and the answer of my questions should be acheived.

On the other hand, I will also state some collection of Comme des Garcons to show why Marc Jacobs has been influenced.

V.M. in Marc Jacobs shop

This is the shop located in Cleveland Street.

In this shop, the main color used is white, which give a feeling of spacious.

Since Jacobs always use Achromatic color scheme in his collection, there is no surprise that the outer wall written "MARC BY MARC JACOBS" is black, and the inner wall is white, which is also Achromatic color scheme.

Moreover, the items are allocated by the color schemes that Jacobs always used in his collection. In the above picture, red in different values are put together, which is Monchromatic color scheme, and there are some bluish green items put besides, which is complimentary to the red color.

All in all, Marc Jacobs not only use achromatic color scheme, monochromatic color scheme and complimentary color scheme in his collections, but also in his shops which can tells that he really likes to use these color schemes.

Gorgeous Advertisement

Here are some advertisements found on trams, the wall of building, magazine and on web.

Usually, the background of the ad is white, which is same as the V.M. of its own store.

Coincidentally, the color families used in Marc Jacobs' ad are those Jacobs always used in his collection. And of course, he always uses color as same as playing magic.

The above color used are the most impressed me, as when I first glance at this ad, one thing in my mind is that, "It's so feminine", "It expresses the gentle moment of female" and " It's the prettiest moment". The colors give me these feeling are in the above color family, such as pink, kahki, brown etc..

The first impression the above ad gives me is bloody, the man act like eating human meat!! Actually, it's right, it's meat, but not human, is the beef in a burger. That's mean, red, orange, yellow and brown together gives a feeling of bloody.

Oh!! here contains the color scheme Jacobs likes to use quite often!!

It's Complimentary Color Scheme and Analogous Color Scheme!!

Do you still remember one of the outfits in Jacobs' 2000 S/S???

The theme of that year is the California Summer Girl. Let's see the outfit!!

The colors used are quite similar, except the use of sky blue. But this outfit also project the same feeling as the ad above.

And, countryside, autumn, will use the similar colors.

Red, Yellow and Blue. Triad is used. The feeling is hard to describe, but it represents Marc Jacobs!

It is deemed that Marc Jacobs is an ironic, erotic designer.

Some of the ad are quite erotic either. See the above!!

Even, some cutie ad will have little nude female.



Not only the brand Marc Jacobs, but also Louis Vuitton's ad.

A LITTLE CONCLUSION ON 10 YEARS

After analyzing 10-years collections of Marc Jacobs, the following conclusion is drawn. Firstly, I’m going to talk about what colors Marc Jacobs used under different circumstances. Secondly, I’ll highlight the special style of Marc Jacobs in applying colors. Then, I’ll move on to the color scheme that he always used, and the reason behind. Finally, I will stressed the colors that Marc Jacob loves to used, and the reason behind.

1) Colors used under different circumstances
Red+Orange+Yellow+Brown: Summer, Beach.
Different hues of Red: a feeling of sweet and cutie girls.
Black+White+Grey: a feeling of elegance
Purple+Orange+Yellow+Green+Blue: nation feeling
Pastels Colors: feminine, gentle
Red+Purple+ Green: STRONG feeling

2) The special style of Marc Jacobs in applying colors
In 2002 collection, Jacobs wants to project the feeling of a sunny Sunday morning after a long Saturday night. However, I expect the color used should be holiday mood, which are some sunshine colors, RED, ORANGE, BLUE...but Jacobs is the opposite, color used are BLACK, WHITE, GREY, KHAKI. Jacobs is always play with the opposite.

In 2003 collection, I discover one thing is that, Jacobs has all the literal references to past fashions verged on re-creation, rather than the renewal for which Jacobs is justly famous.

Moreover, I also found that Jacobs will still reference to his past collection in Perry Ellis and he also express different feelings by applying the same color scheme and nearing colors.

3) The color scheme that Jacobs always used
Achromatic Color Scheme, Analogous Color Scheme, and Monochromatic Color Scheme.

4) The colors that Marc Jacob loves to used

Black,White,Grey:
These three colors always appears in Jacobs's collections.

Not only had Jacobs been late even to the point of unfashionable, but his show was derivative, relying rather too heavily on the archive of Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons and, even more so, Martin Margiela.Never one to let things lie, Jacobs responded immediately, and in suitably high-profile style, by telling the industry bible Women's Wear Daily: "I've never denied how influenced I am by Margiela or by Rei Kawakubo, those are people that inspire my work. I don't hide that... Everyone is influenced by Comme des Garçons and by Martin Margiela. Anybody who's aware of what life is in a contemporary world is influenced by those designers."

BUT WHY White, Black and Grey???
On one hand, Japanese culture in colors are the third color as their preference. Since they don't want to be standed out. Therefore, black, white and grey colour are their favourite colors.

On the other hand, Rei Kawakubo's baby boomer is after WWⅡ. At that period, Japan was full of darkness, with purging the war criminals, rape, civilian casualties, comfort woman, starvation etc. Post-war Japan was chaotic. By the influence of the baby boomer, in the earily period of Comme des Garcons the designer likes to use black, white, grey colors which refers to died, sadness.

Marc Jacobs 2000

Spring 2000





















Click the above picture the view it clearly=]


Marc Jacobs' Spring 2000 line is sure to become one of the most important collections of the season. The mood of the clothes was evocative of a California surfer girl on holiday in a Parisian discotheque circa 1979: canvas trousers with green and red piping were paired with poor boy cashmere T-shirts; Nimes denim pants, sundresses, and skirtsuits looked crisp and fresh with striped gauze tops. The clean and simple lines were thrown occasional accents—like paillette trimming on green cotton satin pea jackets, spotted dresses, and striped trousers. The overall feeling: effortless, understated chic.




The above picture shows how is in a Parisian discotheque, and Marc Jacobs' collection is inspired by the wearing inside the discotheque. However, you can compare the atmosphere in the above picture and the below. Although Jacobs's outfits can express the mood, the decoration or design of the runway cannot let others feel the mood well.



Analogous Color Scheme is used, both the red and bluish purple is the colors that Jacobs always used.




Monochromatic Color Scheme is used, giving a feeling of sophisticated.




I love these two outfits the most among the collection. I would say, they must be the apply of your eye if you were in the discotheque! These two outfits fully expressed California surfer girl on holiday, which I can feel Sun shine from them! But how could Marc Jacobs do that? It is not because of the skin color of the model, is the main color Jacobs used is Orange, Red and Green. But it is not enough to bring the mood, I think Marc Jacobs is just like playing magic when he apply colors. The above, Principle of Order is used, you can find that (the left photo), Jacobs firstly used the Achromatic black contrasting with a red line, then will be the monochromatic color scheme of red, followed by the complimentary color scheme. It is really amazing!

Color Family:

FALL 2000

























Click the above picture the view it clearly=]


Marc Jacobs continued doing what he does best: reinterpreting classic favorites with a refined, self-effacing skill. This time around, '70s wardrobe favorites—head-to-toe looks that call to mind a sophisticated feminist art dealer with a penchant for the organic—underwent his skillful surgical treatment.





Again, this is the colors, and color scheme he usually used, analogous color scheme. This would give me a feeling of office girl in 70's.




I love the plastic jacket, the pattern fully expressed " I am designed by Marc Jacobs". Actually, in the pattern, split complimentary color scheme is used which RED, YELLOW and GREEN are used. I would say this give me a feeling of modern but not 70's, it would still be fashionable if you wearing this to your office.


SUMMARY
In 2000, the color schemes that Jacobs always use are Achromatic Color Scheme, Analogous Color Scheme and Monchromatic Color Scheme. But he used Split Complimentary Color Scheme and Principle of Order to project some special feeling. For example, Red, Orange, Yellow and Brown can give us feeling of Summer, Beach.